ACAPULCO
Introduction
As the original seaside resort in a country now known for its beaches, Acapulco has enticed vacationers for more than half a century. The Kennedys and the Clintons honeymooned there, Elisabeth Taylor married there, and film stars have been relaxing beneath its palms since the heyday of Erroll Flynn and Frank Sinatra. These days Acapulco is bigger and, in some ways, better than ever.
The seaside city is also the backyard beach of Mexicans living in Guadalajara and, especially, Mexico City. The national capital is just 250 mi/400 km away. As a result, Acapulco feels more authentically Mexican than do resorts like Cancun or Los Cabos, which are tailored to vacationers from abroad.
A playground that never sleeps, Acapulco is home to dazzling restaurants and decadent discos. Dine on sushi one night and pozole (a regional specialty) the next. And if heavy metal and pulsing techno are not your thing, hold hands at a piano bar. Don't expect to get much sleep, however. Dance all night, sleep half the day and fuel your body with sun and spicy food in between.
HISTORY
Originally an Amerindian fishing village, Acapulco was settled by the Spanish in the early 1500s and became a major port for Spain's trade with Asia. After pirates began plundering their treasures, the Spanish erected Fort San Diego in 1616 to protect their Orient-bound ships. But the pentagon-shaped stronghold succumbed to an earthquake in 1776 and had to be rebuilt. Later, toward the end of the Mexican War for Independence, the fort was the site of a Mexican victory over the Spanish.
When the Spanish left in the early 1800s, the town's importance declined until 1927, when a road over the mountains linked Acapulco with the rest of Mexico. The first hotel opened seven years later. Acapulco evolved as a resort simply because it was the closest beach to Mexico City—and downhill all the way: The altitude drops more than 7,000 ft/2,100 m to sea level in the 250-mi/400-km drive. The road, which was mostly a single lane, followed the original rough-and-tumble footpath, and took several days to drive. (Today a four-lane toll road, which includes a 2-mi-/3-km-long tunnel through the Sierra Madres, trims the trip to less than four hours.) Following World War II Hollywood discovered Acapulco, and it became a fashionable hideaway for those who had the time and money needed to get there.
For Acapulco, the jet age arrived in 1964, bringing with it the jet set and a boom in hotel construction along the bay. The dollars tourists squandered so freely inspired the Mexican Government to promote the development of "more Acapulcos" from the Caribbean to Baja California. In the years that followed, these competing destinations shot ahead of Acapulco itself. Many of the hotels along the beach fell into disrepair. Rejuvenation efforts, including an improved sanitary system to keep sewage out of the bay and market stalls to corral aggressive vendors, began in earnest in the 1990s.
But Hurricane Pauline slammed into the city in 1997, causing mud slides that killed 142 people. The storm curtailed some tourist visits, but, more importantly, highlighted the great economic chasm between Acapulco's hotel zone and the rest of the city, which is crowded, polluted and riddled with poverty. Cleanup efforts were immediate and extensive, however, and within a month, few signs of the storm were visible to visitors.
GEOGRAPHY
One of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world, Acapulco Bay lies on the Pacific coast of Mexico—the so-called Mexican Riviera. Towering over the bay and its beaches soar new condominium towers and once magnificent hotels, most of them built 15 or 20 years ago and beginning to show their age. At night, the bay's crescent-shaped shoreline resembles a movie star's glittering necklace. By day the view is dominated by the high, verdant mountains that wrap around the port, sealing it off from the interior of the country.
The stretch of coastline on either side of the Acapulco Bay inlet runs roughly east to west along the Pacific. To the north is Mexico City. The Acapulco airport is situated along the open ocean east of the city, where four golf courses and several luxury hotels comprise an area called Acapulco Diamante.
As the road from the airport, the Scenic Highway, heads west by northwest toward the center of Acapulco, it first hugs the shoreline and then turns into the mountains, passing lovely Marques Bay with its luxury hotels and elegant villas dotting the hillside. On reaching Acapulco Bay, the highway becomes Costera Miguel Aleman (usually called the Costera for short), named for the president (1946-1952) credited with the development of Acapulco as an international travel destination. The arcing stretch of beachfront and hotels that lie along the bay is sometimes called the Tourist Zone or Golden Zone of Acapulco.
The Costera passes west through Papagayo Park and then dips southwest into the older part of the city. That's where cruise ships and freighters tie up below Fort San Diego. Beyond lies the Zocalo, or main plaza, which is the center of the downtown area. The Costera, now heading south, continues onto a hook-shaped peninsula that houses a pair of small bays, Caleta and Caletilla, whose beaches are favorites with budget vacationers. Many nice homes and a few older hotels divide the large bay from the smaller one. Acapulco's first hotels, now inexpensive places to stay and quite popular with Europeans, were built in the hills above these bays.
This drive along the Costera, alas, tells only half of Acapulco's story. Inland, heading north from the shore, poverty is plentiful.
Advisories
PERSONAL SAFETY
Theft is not uncommon in Acapulco. Take the same precautions you would in any large city: Hold on to your purse and camera, and don't flash expensive jewelry. If you go for a swim at the beach, have someone watch your belongings. Be especially alert in large, dense crowds—prime pickpocket territory. Make photocopies of passports, plane tickets, credit cards and other important documents—leave the originals in the hotel safe. Watch luggage at airports and leave nothing out in hotel rooms that might tempt the chambermaid or anyone else with a key. Be careful with credit cards and review vouchers carefully.
The tourist areas of Acapulco generally are not dangerous, but other parts of town can be. Remember the adage that inebriated vacationers and their valuables are often soon parted. Avoid any kind of narcotics—penalties for possession are severe.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Consular Operations Section—Phone 02-6261-3305 or toll free in Australia 1300-555-135. http://www.dfat.gov.au/consular/.
British Foreign and Commonwealth Office, Consular Division—Phone 20-7238-4503. http://www.fco.gov.uk/travel/.
Canadian Travel Advisory Line—Phone 613-944-6788 or toll free in Canada 800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
U.S. Department of State, Overseas Citizens Services—Phone 202-647-5225. http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html.
CULTURAL PRACTICES
Later meal hours are the biggest difference most vacationers encounter in Acapulco. Lunch in Mexico is taken anytime after 1 pm. Fashionable folk never show up for dinner before 9 pm, and the discos only start to fill around midnight. Travelers attending meetings or conventions will discover the manana syndrome is alive and well. Starting hour for an event often is when delegates or guests begin wandering in. An appointment at 10 am may really mean anytime in the morning. Coats and ties are as unusual as turbans in Acapulco, but in other respects, Mexicans tend to be conservative and formal. First names are used only by friends who attended kindergarten together. Jaw-breaking titles ("licenciado" or "ingeniero") are the preferred means of address, but foreigners can get away with "senor." This is a good thing, too, because, to add to the confusion, Spanish-speakers normally use both their father's and mother's family names, meaning one's middle name is one's surname, as in Vicente Fox Quezada. Be prepared to shake hands with everyone at every meeting. Women expect a quick kiss on the cheek.
Port Information
WHERE THE SHIPS DOCK
Cruise ships stopping in Acapulco sail into Acapulco Bay and tie up at a dock west of the hotel strip (also known as the Golden Zone) along the Costera Miguel Aleman, usually just called the Costera. There's room for two or three ships. When the berths are full, ships may anchor in the bay and tender passengers to the dock in smaller craft.
A hospitality desk in the terminal building offers information to cruise-ship passengers; it's open whenever a ship is in port. From the dock, you can walk across the Costera and up to Fort San Diego, which overlooks the cruise pier. Old Acapulco's zocalo, or main plaza, is an easy five-minute walk northwest, but the main Costera tourist zone is much farther east. You may want to take a cab.
SHIP-SPONSORED TOURS
If you prefer to leave the details of sightseeing to someone else, a guided tour will be best.
Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the city, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Some may include lunch and drinks or a different number of stops, so the final price may be greatly higher or lower than the prices listed below. (Fees for children range from half price to full price.) Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.
Acapulco City Tour—On this tour you'll visit most of the city's beaches and tourist attractions. You'll stop to watch the famous La Quebrada cliff divers and then visit several resort hotels along the bay. There's usually time for shopping. 3-4 hours. US$30-$40.
Deluxe Acapulco Tour—Much the same as the above, but with more time spent at each site, making it a full-day trip. A five-star lunch is included. 7 hours. About US$90.
Acapulco Homes and Gardens—An insider's look at Acapulco, including a drive by homes owned by '50s U.S. movie stars and refreshments at an elegant hotel. Finish with a stop at the convention center's lovely botanical gardens. 3-4 hours. About US$40.
Golf—You can try your swing at one of the area's luxurious golf courses, which include the Mayan Palace Golf Course and the Acapulco Princess Hotel's golf course, a par-72 course designed by Ted Robinson. Greens fees, shared cart and round-trip transportation included from the dock. 4-5 hours. About US$105-$175.
Shotover Jet—This tour combines a fast boat ride with a scenic river about 45 minutes from Acapulco. A shallow-water jet boat takes you down the Rio Papagayo, a jungle river lush with plants and wildlife in which a number of Hollywood films have been shot. 4 hours. About US$50-$70.
Historical Acapulco—See monuments from the city's distant and recent past, from the relics of Fort San Diego and its museum to the splendid Caleta area where stars from Hollywood's classic era built magnificent hideaway retreats. Most tours stop at the Chapel of Peace in Las Brisas, which features an excellent view of Acapulco Bay, and the Flamingo Hotel, a favorite celebrity hangout during the 1940s and 1950s. 3-4 hours. About US$40-$50.
Dolphin Adventure—Though infrequently offered, this shore excursion is among the most original options. Participants get the unique experience of playing and swimming with friendly dolphins in their own natural habitat. 4 hours. About US$175.
LOCAL TOURS
Many larger hotels in Acapulco arrange tours for their guests. If you want to arrange your own guided tour, there are several reputable tour operators. If you book your own tour, you might save a few dollars—but keep in mind that it will take some time to contact the operators, comparison shop and make a booking.
Aka Tiki—Billing itself as the "world's largest catamaran," this vessel cruises the coastal waters during twice-daily departures. Gorge yourself while you can—the drinks and buffet meal are included in the price. Departures at 11 am and 3 pm. M$170. Departs from Paseo del Pescador, downtown. Phone 484-6140.
Fiesta Cabaret and Bonanza—These ships will take you around lovely Acapulco Bay and serve you drinks to boot, all for one price. Weekday departures at 11 am and 4 pm, weekends at 11 am, 4 pm and 10:30 pm. M$200. Fiesta Dock, downtown. Phone 483-1083.
Palao—This boat takes passengers to the other side of La Roqueta Island. Drinks and food are included in the price. Departures 11 am and 1:30 pm. M$80. Ski Club Dock, downtown. Phone 482-4313.
Geostats
Official Name: Acapulco de Juarez.
Passport/Visa Requirements: Australian and U.K. citizens need passports. Canadian and U.S. citizens need passports or proof of citizenship (birth certificates and photo IDs). Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departure.
Health Certificates: Yellow fever certificate required if you're arriving from an infected area.
City Population: 516,300.
Currency: Peso (M$). 100 centavos = M$1.
Languages: Spanish, but English is spoken in tourist areas.
Economy: Tourism and agriculture (cotton, sugar, coffee and coconut products).
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Weather: Tropical.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the first Sunday in April to the last Sunday in October.
Telephone Codes: 52, Mexico country code; 74, Acapulco city code.
Departure Tax: Visitors must pay a departure tax of M$100 or US$12. It can be paid in pesos or U.S. dollars. The Mexican government now charges an additional entry tax of M$150 (about US$16) for all visitors, except cruise ship passengers.
Dos and Don'ts
You might run into a few vendors on the streets and beaches. But head for the group markets for more choices and more competitive prices.
Officials maintain that the bay has been cleaned up, but many people believe the water is still polluted. You might want to stick to sunning on the beach and swimming in the hotel pool.
If you want to attend bullfights, which are held only in the winter, buy tickets for seats in the shade, not in the sun, even though they'll cost more.
Barra Vieja, about 20 mi/32 km south of Acapulco, is a beautiful beach still undiscovered by the majority of tourists.
Potpourri
To keep the beaches clean, a flotilla of yellow skiffs patrols the bay, scooping up trash in nets.
Romance is Acapulco's middle name. Such notable couples as Jack and Jackie Kennedy and Bill and Hillary Clinton honeymooned there.
Streets in Acapulco are a hodgepodge: They used to be paths into the mountains.
Sightseeing
As a resort town, Acapulco lacks the Indian ruins, Spanish missions, scenic barrios, historic monuments and arrays of museums that give other Mexican cities such a rich and traditional feel. Much of the interesting historical detail remaining in the city is found in the downtown area on the west side of the bay—also called Acapulco Vieja or Old Acapulco—which contains Zocalo, the town's traditional square, and Fort San Diego, the nearly 400-year-old garrison that once protected Acapulco. More common are modern, family-oriented recreation projects, like the impressive Papagayo Park (built in the early 1980s); CICI, the much-beloved water-oriented amusement park; and Magico Mundo Marino, a shiny new aquarium. For budding naturalists and outdoor enthusiasts, visits to La Roqueta Island (which has a zoo) or the swamps at Tres Palos might provide welcome relief from Acapulco's more manufactured forms of fun. One specatcle that should not be missed by anyone is the cliff diving at La Quebrada.
Finally, it should be acknowledged that the real city of Acapulco sprawls inland from the plaza. Few tourists see this congested and poorly maintained community, which suffered heavy damage when hurricanes struck the city in the summer of 1997. While much of what draws travelers to this coastal region is an impressive display of glitz and glamour, visitors should realize that there is a wider reality to Acapulco.
LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES
El Fuerte de San Diego (Fort San Diego)—The pentagonal fortress, complete with drawbridge, was built in the 17th century to defend Acapulco from pirate attacks. Also a great place to capture windswept views of the city and the bay. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. M$50. Above the Costera by the docks.
MUSEUMS
Museo Historico de Acapulco—Situated inside Fuerte de San Diego, the museum has a fine collection of archaeological, historical and anthropological exhibits covering Acapulco from prehistoric times through independence from Spain. Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-6:30 pm. M$50 (seniors and children younger than age 13 free). Phone 482-3828.
Museo Mezcala—Exhibits archaeological pieces found in the area. Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-6:30 pm. M$10 (seniors and children younger than age 13 free). Casa de la Cultura, Costera Miguel Aleman (in Golden Zone). Phone 484-7269.
NEIGHBORHOODS AND DISTRICTS
Acapulco Diamante—If you're in the mood for sweeping vistas, hire a taxi or drive your car southeast along the Costera toward the airport, between Punta Diamante and Playa Diamante. The road curves and climbs, affording a bird's-eye view of the gleaming hotels and resorts that embrace Acapulco Bay. It's especially spectacular at night. This area is also home to a number of new luxury hotels and their namesake golf courses, many of which are open to the public.
The Golden Zone—This sweeping arc of waterfront is the heart of Acapulco's resort area (known in Spanish as Zona Dorada). It officially begins to the northeast of the Zocalo, just beyond the eastern edge of Papagayo Park, and runs west along the Costera Miguel Aleman. High-rise hotels, condominium towers, restaurants and shops crowd the Golden Zone, and many of Acapulco's most fashionable addresses are found where the Costera winds up the hills to the cliffs overlooking the bay. The Costera is a pleasant place to stroll. (If you'd rather ride than walk, take a horse-drawn calandria.) Colorful sidewalk cafes are interspersed between the high-rise hotels, fast-food restaurants and shops crammed with clay pottery, textiles and assorted souvenirs. You can also walk along the beach, where you'll see parasailers, water-skiers, jetskiers and an array of families and slick bodies simply soaking up the rays.
Zocalo—This cathedral square is the center of the city's historical area, Acapulco Viejo, which lies on the west side of Acapulco Bay. The square (officially called Plaza Juan Alvarez, though universally referred to as the Zocalo) is scenically backed by the onion-shaped, Byzantine domes of the Cathedral of Our Lady of Solitude (built in 1930). The other side of the square is a shoreline filled with fishing skiffs and tour boats. No stay is complete without an evening spent in the Zocalo, sampling local beer and seafood at a sidewalk cafe and taking in the lively activity in the plaza. The seaside walkway, the malecon, runs near the Zocalo and continues east along the waterfront toward Fort San Diego.
THEME AND AMUSEMENT PARKS
CICI—A water-based amusement park with slides, rides, pools, waterfalls and live entertainment. Daily 10 am-6 pm. M$40. Costera Miguel Aleman 220. Phone 484-1970.
ZOOS AND WILDLIFE
La Roqueta Zoo—If you make the short boat ride to La Roqueta Island—glass-bottomed vessels leave regularly from the beaches at Caleta and Caletilla—you might spend an hour or two taking in the island's zoo, which houses animals from lions and camels to native birds. M$50 adults, M$25 children. Daily 9 am-5 pm.
Magico Mundo Marino—The art deco-style aquarium is home to tropical fish, seals and alligators. After visiting the critters, cool off in the pool, which has a water slide and a water-sports center. M$50. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-5 pm. Playa Caleta (on the peninsula at the western end of Acapulco Bay). Phone 483-1215.
ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES
Cliff Divers—Since the 1930s, Acapulco youths have been thrilling visitors by diving off La Quebrada cliffs into the surf pounding the rocks 110 ft/35 m below—the treacherous climb to the diving perches is no humble feat, either. These daredevils have to time their dives just right—when the waves are coming in rather than receding—and then free fall for several seconds before hitting the water at more than 50 mph/80 kph. Reportedly, no diver has ever been seriously hurt. You get an impressive view of the divers during the show at La Perla, the nightclub at El Mirador Hotel. Or, for a modest M$10 donation, you can watch from something like an amphitheater nearby. Boats making bay cruises view the spectacle from below. The divers leap at 1, 7:30, 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30 pm. The 10:30 dive is done with torches, and the procession of torch-bearing divers up the cliff trail is a sight to behold.
Diego Rivera Mosaic—In 1956, Diego Rivera made an outdoor mural of seashells and tiles at the home of Dolores Olmedo. It's definitely worth a look. He also decorated the interior of the house, but it is not open to the public. The mural depicts Quetzacoatl, an ancient god sometimes shown as a feathery snake. On Cerro de la Pinzona street.
Papagayo Park—The park divides the luxurious, tourist-oriented Golden Zone from what might be called blue-collar Hornos Beach. Within the park are various gardens and artificial lakes, an auditorium, numerous restaurants and curious replicas of a Spanish galleon and the space shuttle Columbia. For wildlife enthusiasts there's an aviary containing many species of birds, while a modest amusement area offers various rides. Free. On the Costera (between Sebastian El Cano and Alvaro de Amezquita streets).
DINING
Dinner often is the high point of a day in Acapulco, with choices ranging from local specialties to Japanese gourmet fare. The good hotels all have their specialty restaurants and the Costera is the address of many outstanding establishments. Others are up in the hills—where the views are spectacular—and out along the scenic highway. Dress in the spiffy places is "elegantly casual." Breezier, youth-oriented open-air cafes are found along the Costera, as are many U.S.-style coffee shops. Those who want to go where the locals go will find several choices around the main plaza downtown. Dinner is eaten somewhat late in Acapulco: Most people don't hit the restaurants until 9 pm or so. Still, many restaurants open for cocktails at 7 pm or even 6:30. Lunch, considered a light meal, is served anytime after 1 pm.
No matter where you wind up or what time you get there, consider sampling the house ceviche, an appetizer of uncooked, lime-marinated fish served with tomato, onion and chilies. Acapulco's version—which has the consistency of cocktail sauce—is different from the dish served elsewhere in Mexico. Good local beverages include Mexican beers, batidos (nonalcoholic fruit drinks) and horchata (a refreshing rice water). Restaurants that cater to tourists mostly use purified water for drinking and washing food, but it's always smart to ask. You can order bottled water either con gas (carbonated) or sin gas (noncarbonated).
Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than M$100; $$ = M$100-$200; $$$ = M$201-$300; and $$$$ = more than M$300.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
Beto's—By day, Beto's serves seafood right on the beach. By night, you'll dine under a palapa facing the ocean, serenaded with live music. Specialties include pescado a la talla (spicy fish grilled on a stick), red snapper, lobster and ceviche. Noon-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Costera Miguel Aleman at Condesa Beach, Acapulco. Phone 484-0473.
Coyuca 22—A beautiful restaurant with arched pillars, small pools, numerous sculptures and lovely terraces overlooking Acapulco Bay. Seafood, especially lobster, is the specialty. November-April daily 7-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Coyuca 22, Acapulco. Phone 484-3468.
Le Petite Belgique—A marvelous little place popular with Acapulco insiders and locals. Try the mussels in white wine. Daily 1-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Plaza Marbella at the Diana Circle (on the Costera), Acapulco. Phone 784-7722.
Madeiras—American and Continental cuisine served to fashionable crowds on a terrace overlooking the bay. Fixed price menu. 7-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Carretera Escenica (near Las Brisas), Acapulco. Phone 484-1908.
Marisco Pipos—Where the locals go when dining out. Try the grilled red snapper in garlic sauce. Daily 11 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. Almirante Breton 3 (downtown), Acapulco. Phone 482-2237.
LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES
Carlos 'n' Charlie's—Part of a popular chain where the American-via-Mexican food plays second fiddle to the rowdy atmosphere and waiters' gags. But we're not usually disappointed by the ribs, the stuffed shrimp or the oysters. A favorite with tourists, so arrive early for a place in line. Daily 1 pm until past midnight. $$-$$. Most major credit cards. Costera Miguel Aleman 112, Acapulco. Phone 484-0039.
La Cabana—An open-air, bay-view restaurant on Playa Caleta, serving fresh seafood under a large white awning. We recommend the charola de mariscada, a tasty sampling of seafood. Daily 9 am-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Playa Caleta, Lado Ote, Acapulco. Phone 825-007.
La Catrina—A good spot for breakfast or a midnight snack. Serves all the standard Mexican fare, from tacos to tortas to huevos rancheros. Daily 8 am-1 am. $. Cash only. Costera Miguel Aleman 74, Acapulco. Phone 484-4345.
Senor Frog's—Always crowded, noisy and full of fun, Senor Frog's is the newest addition to the Carlos 'n' Charlie's chain, a zany spot where the specialty is huesitos a la barbecue—barbecued ribs. Open daily 1 pm-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Escenica Las Brisas, Acapulco. Phone 848-020 848-020.
Shopping
Tempting arrays of Mexican products can be found throughout the city: silver, ceramics, glassware, leather goods, jewelry and embroidered clothing. Many (though by no means all) of the best handicrafts, silver and jewelry are sold in shops near or inside the hotels on the Costera. Some values can also be found in the handicraft stalls along the Costera and in what everyone refers to, even in Spanish, as the Flea Market. Several malls have opened in recent years, as well. Silver is best bought in shops that specialize in it, and some advertise that their silver comes from Taxco, the region's famed silver-producing city. The prices usually make it a pretty good value—about the same as what you'll find in Taxco itself. For some vacationers, the number of art galleries and the quality of the paintings comes as a surprise. Remember, this is the homeland of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, to mention only two.
Whatever you decide to buy, remember that bargaining is expected everywhere except at large chains such as Sanborns. Here are a few tips: In stores, ask what discounts are available and how much greater that discount will be if the payment is made in cash instead of by credit card. At stalls or in the market, agree that an item is beautiful but sigh, regretting that you cannot pay the price asked, having already overextended yourself. Let the seller start lowering his own price. Bargain hunters find the morning a good time for negotiating as there are few other customers around and the proprietor is probably anxious to make the first sale of the day.
Nightlife
Much of what makes Acapulco special takes place after the sun goes down. Acapulco's bars, clubs and restaurants tend to be concentrated along the main part of the Costera, especially between Plaza las Glorias Paraiso and the Navy base at the foot of Las Brisas Hills. Beachside restaurants (which change names and themes often) usually get rowdier as the night goes on: Blaring rock and roll, cheap beer and tequila work the patrons into a frenzied state.
Where the nightlife really hits its peak, though, is in the discos—Acapulco's most celebrated form of revelry. These truly lavish clubs can be as exclusive and elaborate as those in Rio, New York or Los Angeles. If you go, dress well and be prepared to stand in line, pay a steep cover and stay out all night. Cover charges vary from season to season and night to night: On Monday and Tuesday during September, they often are waived entirely. Other times they can be as low as M$50 and as much as M$250.
The nightlife scene in Acapulco doesn't hit its stride until 1 or 2 am, and most clubs have no set closing time. Those in the know eat a late dinner, dance off the calories until dawn, breakfast at their hotels or at all-night coffee shops on the Costera and sleep until afternoon.
Performing Arts
This city is better known for its bars and discos than for its cultural offerings. But visitors interested in traditional Mexican music and dance will find the twice weekly folkloric shows to be both authentic and lively. Acapulco also has its own philharmonic orchestra, which performs regularly at the Convention Center.
Spectator Sports
While Acapulco affords only a few sports for travelers to take in, those it offers are among the most exotic. Nearly anyone who has heard anything about Acapulco is familiar with the legendary cliff divers who plunge from the high rocks at La Quebrada. There is no excuse for missing these brave (foolhardy?) athletes, even if one has only a couple of days to spend in the city. Also exciting—and equally dangerous to the participants—are the bullfights at the Plaza de Toros. (They're seasonal, so check locally for times.) For those looking to wager some of their holiday budget in hopes of a hotel upgrade, jai alai matches offer a nice opportunity to plunk down some dough. You'll also witness one of the highest-velocity sports on the planet.
Recreation
The tropical waters of Acapulco Bay are the center of daytime activity. With several beaches to choose from, you'll rarely have to go too far to live out your travelers' fantasies, whether that means swimming, snorkeling, parasailing or simply baking under the Mexican sun. The waters of Acapulco Bay and beyond are home to fish of all stripes (and many without stripes), which can be caught during a fishing charter or merely ogled from the comfort of a glass-bottomed boat.
If, somehow, you grow tired of lazy days on the playa, Acapulco supplies plenty of more active ways to build up a sweat. Most notably, there are scores of tennis courts—every self-respecting upscale hotel has some—and an impressive array of scenic, challenging, tournament-worthy golf courses, many with prime oceanfront vistas.
DayPlans
To help you make the most of your time in port, we've designed three different itineraries specifically for cruise-ship visitors.
PLAN A
Two Bodies of Water, Then You Dance
Slip into your swimwear and start the day at one of the beautiful beaches in the Golden Zone along the Costera, such as Playa Hornos or Playa Hornitos. Indulge in your favorite water sport or stroll along the Costera until a colorful shop draws you inside. When you've tired of either activity, enjoy a lobster lunch at the club or restaurant of your choice. (There are plenty to consider along the Costera.)
Next, hire a cab or take the local bus to Pie de la Cuesta and spend the afternoon amid Coyuca Lagoon's tropical greenery. Relax on a boat or go waterskiing. Linger long enough to sip a cocktail and watch the sunset from one of the beachfront restaurants.
Later (after a nap, perhaps), you can dance the night away in one of Acapulco's lively discos, such as Baby O, Palladium or Fantasy.
PLAN B
Feasts for the Eyes
First reserve a table for dinner at Miramar. Then walk or catch a cab to Fort San Diego. View the bay from the battlements, enjoy the museum and head downtown to the Zocalo to see the Nuestra Senora de la Soledad church.
Find a shady seat on the plaza and people-watch for awhile: This is Acapulco for the locals as opposed to the tourist trade.
Back on the Costera you can catch a bus to the Golden Zone and the open-air mercado, where the bargaining is lively. In this area, you'll also find specialty shops for silver jewelry, designer clothing and Mexican art, as well as plenty of choices for lunch. Finish your expedition at Artesanias Finas de Acapulco (just off the Costera at Calle Horacio Nelson) in time to take in the 7:45 pm Mexican Fiesta show at the Centro Convenciones Acapulco nearby.
Then grab a cab to Miramar and dine with a view of the lights sweeping around Acapulco Bay.
PLAN C
A Beach, a Zoo, an Aquarium—Even a Lighthouse
After making a dinner reservation at Ristorante CasaNova, take a taxi to Playa Caleta or Playa Caletilla and catch an early glass-bottomed boat to La Roqueta Island. You can lie on the beach, stroll around the zoo or hike up the hill to the old lighthouse (depending on what you did the night before).
Return to Playa Caletilla for a delicious beachside lunch at La Cabana. Then walk over to the Magico Mundo aquarium and peruse the colorful marine life. You can also swim in the freshwater pool there.
If there's time, freshen up before hailing a cab for the ride to Ristorante CasaNova.
Weather
Winter in Acapulco is divine—it's warm and dry most of the time. May to August can be very hot, humid and rainy. Expect daily afternoon showers June-September. Year-round temperatures range 81-90 F/27-33 C during the day and 70-81 F/21-27 C at night.
What to Wear
Elegantly casual describes the dress code for Acapulco. Beachwear like shorts and T-shirts is fine for beach and pool, of course, and clothes that are cool, comfortable and not overly revealing are suitable for daytime exploring. Evenings, though, require outfits that are a bit dressier yet comfortable enough for an outdoor dinner. Shorts and jeans are not acceptable. Women usually carry along a wrap for those places where the air-conditioning can be intense; macho guys merely shiver. Frequent visitors usually arrive with luggage that is almost empty and return home laden with the resort wear for which Acapulco is famous. For nightlife, women usually wear short skirts or stylish slacks, while men don a nice shirt and pants.
Transportation
AIR
Alvarez International Airport (ACA) is 15 mi/25 km southeast of the city.
Connecting Transportation
Rental vehicles are available at the airport, and Transportes Terrestres (phone 462-1095 or 462-1172) provides transportation into the city. (In fact, they have a monopoly on airport transportation. Taxis aren't allowed to work that route at all.) The rides, which are conducted in nine-passenger vans, cost about M$80. The company will also pick up passengers at hotels when the request is made at least a day in advance. The drive from the airport along Boulevard of Nations and into town is quite scenic, so grab a window seat.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Buses run along the Costera and a few are even air-conditioned. They can be boarded only at indicated bus stops. Fare is M$2.50, or M$3.50 for the air-conditioned vehicles. Change is provided for coins, but not banknotes. Rather rickety buses serve Pie de la Cuesta from the Zocalo and depart for Puerto Marques from the Navy Base at the foot of the Costera (across from the Hyatt Regency Hotel). Fare charged on both lines is M$4. While buses and passenger vans serve the rest of the city, boarding these qualifies as a minor adventure. Fluency in Spanish helps considerably when traveling by bus.
TAXI
Taxi fares are generally quite reasonable. Although cabs are not equipped with meters, prices are listed on a board by most hotel entrances. Hotel cabs are large U.S.-style vehicles and usually charge a minimum M$20 fare. Charging about half that are compact Volkswagens and similar small taxis that can be hailed easily from the street. (Be sure to agree on the price before boarding.) Vehicles with English-speaking drivers can be hired for about M$150 per hour or M$1,000 per day for local or out-of-town tours.
Movil Aca—Boulevard de las Naciones Unidas (no number). Phone 466-9298 or 462-1172.
Servicios Ejecutivos Terrestres (SET)—Vasco de Gama 1. Phone 484-7653. Fax 484-7650.
Money
BANKING
There are several banks, with ATMs, located on the Costera and around the Zocalo. Most—but not all—shops and restaurants catering to tourists accept U.S. dollars and major credit cards. Expect to use cash for public transportation and in small establishments. You'll get the best exchange rate at banks and money exchanges.
BANKING HOURS
Banks are open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm except on legal holidays. Some branches also open Saturday 10 am-2 pm.
BUSINESS HOURS
Offices generally open at 8 or 9 am, but executives may not show up until 10 am. Because the siesta is an honored tradition in Mexico, most businesses close 2-4 pm, before reopening in the late afternoon. Many businesses are open on Saturday until 1 or 2 pm.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
The currency of Mexico is the Peso (M$).
Currency conversion rates:
5.040 for one Australian dollar (A$)
5.960 for one Canadian dollar (Can$)
8.860 for one U.S. dollar (US$)
12.890 for one British pound (£)
Conversion rates were accurate at press time but are subject to change.
Money exchange offices (casas de cambio) and banks offer better exchange rates than hotels. The money exchange houses—and there are many along the Costera—are open later than the banks and are less bureaucratic. Cash machines, found at all banks, frequently offer the best rates and are the most convenient way to obtain pesos (although, as elsewhere, a fee is charged when the machine is used). U.S. dollars are accepted almost everywhere in Acapulco, although change may be returned in pesos.
American Express—Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm. Costera Miguel Aleman 709. Phone 484-5555.
Deal—Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Costera Miguel Aleman 143. Phone 485-0708.
Prodivisas—Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm. Costera Miguel Aleman 184. Phone 481-1532.
SALES/USE TAX
Taxes in Mexico tend to be hidden and therefore mostly go unnoticed, although they do add considerably to prices. Largest of these is the 15% federal value-added tax, levied on almost all transactions and usually included in the total price quoted. Acapulco charges hotel guests a 2% room tax. Tourists must pay M$150 for permission to enter the country, plus a M$190 airport use tax on departure, but these surcharges are usually bundled together in the price of an airplane ticket or a vacation package. Mexico does not offer a tax refund to international visitors.
TIPPING
Plan to arrive in Acapulco with some small-denomination bills for tipping. US$1 or its equivilent is quite sufficient for an airport porter or hotel bellhop. On arrival, a hotel doorperson will unload luggage and hope for a tip before handing the bags over to the bell desk. Taxi drivers do not expect anything above the fare. In restaurants, a 15% tip to wait staff is generous. Service charges are not normally added to the bill. Chambermaids will be pleasantly surprised if a tip is left for them. The hotel concierge may not expect a tip for an ordinary service, but will not be insulted if a small gratuity is proffered.
Health Care
Strong efforts have been made to improve sanitation in Acapulco, but gastrointestinal distress is a common complaint. Most hotels have purified water (or at least say so) or provide bottled water. We stick with the bottled water just to be safe. Bottled water also may be purchased. Good restaurants try to be strict about hygiene, but uncooked foods such as salads should be avoided as should drinks containing ice. You should also be wary of dairy products. Never buy food sold on the street. If you become sick, many good hotels have English-speaking physicians on call at all times.
In the event of a diving emergency, the Diver's Alert Network (DAN) will provide treatment advice and, if necessary, arrange for evacuation: Phone 919-684-8111 or 919-684-4326 (both lines are located in the U.S. and accept collect calls). DAN can also answer questions about diving medicine in a nonemergency situation. For more information, contact DAN's headquarters in the U.S., phone 919-684-2948 or (toll-free in the U.S. and Canada) 800-326-3822.
Don't forget that the sun is quite intense in Acapulco, even on days of average temperature. Basking in the direct sun for more than 15 minutes the first day in Acapulco can end up being painful. Use of strong sunscreen is recommended.
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Australia Medical Advisory Services for Travellers Abroad (MASTA)—Phone toll-free in Australia 1300-655-565.
Health Canada—Phone 613-957-8739. http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca.
U.K. Traveler's Health Line—Phone 20-7631-4408.
U.S. CDC International Travel Information—Phone 877-394-8747. http://www.cdc.gov/travel/.
DOCTORS
Dr. Guadalupe Carmona Applebee—English-speaking dentist. Costera Miguel Aleman 220, Suite 102. Phone 485-3374 or 485-3372.
Neo Medic—Outpatient clinic in the Golden Zone. Some English-speaking staff. Plaza Marbella, Diana Circle. Phone 484-8560 or 484-6454.
HOSPITALS
Cruz Roja—Local branch of the Red Cross, mostly a public emergency hospital. Avenida Ruiz Cortines 126. Phone 485-4100.
Hospital del Pacifico—Full-service hospital with emergency room and some English-speaking staff. Calle Farile at Nao 4. Phone 487-7180.
Hospital Privado Magallanes—Blvd. Wilfrido Massieu 2. Phone 485-4101.
Communication
TELEPHONE
To place long distance calls within Mexico, dial 01, followed by the area code and number. Mexico is in the process of adopting seven-digit local telephone numbers with single digit area codes. Mexico City, however, uses eight digits, though no area code is required in placing a call there. To call the U.S. and Canada, dial 001 followed by the area code and number. To call elsewhere in the world, dial 00. To reach an English-speaking international operator, dial 090.
Public telephones require cards, which can be purchased at newsstands or any of the tiny "minisupermarkets" found along the Costera. "Ladatel" telephone cards may be used to place international calls from public telephones at the lowest available rate. Hotels usually warn guests that the cost of placing an international call can be quite high. Use a phone card or ask your party to call you at the hotel.
MAIL AND PACKAGE SERVICE
The Mexican Postal Service generally is reliable, but service can be slow. Few businesses make use of it. Letters can be posted in hotels. Stamps are available either from the hotel concierge or sold in the newsstand. The main post office is located in the Federal Building downtown at Costera Miguel Aleman 125. (Note that street numbers can be confusing in Acapulco—the Hyatt Regency Hotel, a few miles to the west, is Costera Miguel Aleman 1.)
Hotels also can arrange for shipments via Federal Express or DHL. Of course, this also can be taken care of personally. UPS has no Acapulco office.
DHL—Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday and holidays 9 am-2 pm. Costera Miguel Aleman 180 (in the Flamboyant Commercial Center). Phone 484-6168.
Federal Express—Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. Costera Miguel Aleman 110, Suite 101. Phone 486-4450. Toll-free 800-900-1100.
For More Information
CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU
Convention and Visitors Bureau—Daily 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Costera Miguel Aleman 3111, Suites 204-205. Phone 484-8555. Fax 484-8134. http://www.acapulco-cvb.org.
TOURIST OFFICES
State Tourism Office—Daily 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Centro International Acapulco (also called the Convention Center, in the main tourist zone). Phone 484-4416.
Tourist Information Office—Daily 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Phone 484-7050. Fax 486-9168. Costera Miguel Aleman 187, Hornos Beach.
Calendar
INTRODUCTION
You'll find plenty to do in Acapulco—if you can pry yourself away from the beach. The city has numerous lively festivals with traditional Mexican dance performances. Perhaps the most colorful attractions are the traditional religious festivals occurring throughout the year.
The weekly Acapulco News is a good source of information concerning special exhibits, concerts and events (available at most hotels and newsstands). The monthly Acapulco Magazine also contains event listings.
To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside Mexico, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Mexico's country code, 52, and Acapulco's city code, 74.
Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.
NOVEMBER 2000
2 Nov—Dia de los Muertos. Day of the Dead, or All Souls' Day. Public holiday. Banks and businesses are closed.
2-4 Nov—ACA World Sound Festival. Three-day festival of electronica, jazz, house and dance music, including performances by Moby and Pancho Sanchez. Playa Tres Vidas, on the north side of Tres Palos Lagoon. http://www.acasoundfest.com.
4 Nov—Acapulco Bicentennial Celebration. Held at Fort San Diego.
7-12 Nov—French Film Festival. Five days of new French cinema, including shorts and panels. Juan Ruiz de Alarcon Theater, Convention Center, Costera Miguel Aleman 4455. Phone 484-7046 or 484-7098.
11 Nov—Concert. Performance by the Acapulco Philharmonic as part of the French Film Festival. Fort San Diego.
18-20 Nov—End of Millennium Jazz Festival. Series of concerts. Convention Center, Costera Miguel Aleman 4455. Phone 484-7046 or 484-7098.
20 Nov—Dia de la Revolucion. Public holiday. Commemorates the outbreak of the Mexican Revolution in 1910. Patriotic parades are held in downtown Acapulco.
25 Nov—Tribute to Elsa Aguirre. A commemoration of the films of Elsa Aguirre, sometimes called the "Venus" of Mexican cinema. Hyatt Hotel, Costera Miguel Aleman 1. Phone 469-1234.
26 Nov—Concert. Performance by the Acapulco Philharmonic. Convention Center, Costera Miguel Aleman 4455. Phone 484-7046 or 484-7098.
Late November—International Billfish Tournament. Acapulco's annual fishing tournament attracts anglers from around the world. Continues through early December.
DECEMBER 2000
Early December—International Billfish Tournament. Acapulco's annual fishing tournament attracts anglers from around the world. Concludes early December.
12 Dec—Feast Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Public holiday. Mexico's patron saint is honored.
16-24 Dec—Las Posadas. Candlelight processions to nativity scenes honor Joseph and Mary's search for shelter in Bethlehem.
25 Dec—Christmas Day. Public holiday. All banks and businesses are closed.
JANUARY 2001
1 Jan—New Year's Day. Public holiday. A major celebration throughout Mexico. Banks and businesses are closed.
6 Jan—Dia de los Santos Reyes. The day when Mexicans exchange Christmas presents, culminating the holiday season.
17 Jan—Feast Day of San Antonio de Abad. Animals are blessed in the Roman Catholic churches.
FEBRUARY 2001
5 Feb—Constitution Day. Celebrates the signing of the Constitution in 1917. Public holiday. Businesses are closed.
Mid-Late February—Carnival. Pre-Lenten festival celebrated throughout Mexico. Downtown Acapulco hosts various parades and a king and queen are crowned.
Late February—Tennis. Abierto Mexicano de Tenis Pegaso. ATP-sponsored tennis championship.
MARCH 2001
21 Mar—Benito Juarez's Birthday. Public holiday honoring Mexico's beloved president (1859-1872). Banks and businesses are closed.
APRIL 2001
12-15 Apr—Easter Holidays. Holy Thursday, Good Friday and Easter Sunday are some of Mexico's biggest public holidays. Banks and businesses are closed.
MAY 2001
1 May—Labor Day. Public holiday. Workers parade through the streets. Banks and businesses are closed.
5 May—Cinco de Mayo. Public holiday. Celebration of the defeat of French troops by the Mexicans in 1862. Banks and businesses are closed.
Mid May—Festival de Acapulco. One of the main cultural events in Acapulco, typically held at the Convention Center. Costera Miguel Aleman 4455. Phone 484-7046 or 484-7098.
JUNE 2001
1 Jun—Navy Day. Commemorated in all Mexican seaports.
18-24 Jun—Black Film Festival. Annual showcase of new films by black directors from the U.S., Latin America, Europe and beyond, as well as workshops, panels and discussions. Events are held at the Convention Center (Costera Miguel Aleman 4455), Hyatt Regency (Costera Miguel Aleman 1) and Cinemark Theater (Costera Miguel Aleman 311). For information, call 212-219-7267. http://www.abff.com.
JULY 2001
Mid July—International Diving Championship. Divers from around the world take a leap at La Quebrada.
AUGUST 2001
15 Aug—Feast of the Assumption. Public holiday.
SEPTEMBER 2001
16 Sep—Independence Day. Public holiday celebrating Mexico's independence from Spain. Banks and businesses are closed.
OCTOBER 2001
12 Oct—Columbus Day. Some businesses are closed.
